V-Style For Men

How To Pick Out The Right Jeans For A Man

Gap Straight Fit Jeans (Dark Wash)

A staple garment is different for every man. It could be a blue button front for the gentleman with blue eyes and an office job. Perhaps the linen pant is a staple for the guy that runs the kayak check out because runs warm and loves comfort. For another, it could be a navy sport coat and khaki chinos, while another is a simple Tee. Everyone will have different wardrobe staples because every man has a different lifestyle, although, some may argue that there is one tried and true staple wardrobe for each and every fella. The jean.

If there is one item that could be argued that every man could use, it is the denim pant, but with so many choices out there, mistakes run rampant. With so many colors, fits and brands from Levis and Gap jeans to Diesel and Firetrap jeans, focus is key.

Color/Wash: Typically go for a nice indigo wash with light to no distressing. No tears, no bedazzled pockets – meaning no True Religion, no crazy colored thread etc.

Avoid washes that are deep blue everywhere, but the knees. A light wash on the knees draws all your attention down and makes you look shorter. Also, there is nothing fabulous about people staring at your knees. Jeans are supposed put the focus on you, not the other way around. That is why they are such a staple.

Other colors that can be of use in your wardrobe are grey, white and black washes of denim. As long as you stay with the same rules of simplicity that I have given you for your blue jeans, this will add awesome diversity and style to your closet without making you look the fool.

Legs: The relaxed and baggy look makes you look fat and short. Unless you are an athlete with thighs that can kill, this will make you look like you are swimming in big boy pants. Instead go for these types of fits: “vintage,” “straight,” “relaxed skinny,” “relaxed straight,” “standard.”

The skinny jean is for the ladies, but some brands do make “skinny” jeans that look more like a straight fit.

Boot cut is for men who wear boots. Do not wear boot cut jeans with any other shoe. In fact, the narrower the show you wear, the thinner your jean leg should be and vice versa.

Fits: Do you have a long inseam? Lucky, Seven For All Mankind, Gap online and sometimes Diesel can run as long as 36 inches on the leg.

Looking for the right size? Gap runs a bit big, Diesel, G Star Raw and William Rast run thin, but here is the best way to find out what brand is for you. Go into a department store and grab every jean that fits the color/wash, style and leg instructions that I have given you and try each one on until you find one that fits you best.

A Man Needs Some Brown Shoes

There are those items in a man’s wardrobe that, while basic, are so important as to be indispensible; a great pair of jeans, a well fitting blazer, plain white t-shirts, an oxford button up and so on. Two different pairs of brown shoes, a polished lace up and a more casual loafer, are also absolute essentials in every well dressed man’s arsenal. The perfect dark brown shoe can be worn with nearly every color from navy and grey suits, to dark blue denim, to khakis, and every look in between. Because a man should have options, two pairs of shoes give you the versatility to work with nearly every garment in your closet. 

The first pair of brown shoes a well dressed man should own is a nice pair of dark brown lace up “dress” type shoes. Many styles are available from cap toes to wing tips and worn in a dark brown and well polished leather they are always appropriate and timeless. While perfectly at home with a navy or gray suit this type of shoe can also add some formality to a more casual look. Try wearing them with chinos for a modern and dressy look.

The second style in the brown shoe one-two punch is a casual loafer. As with lace ups there are endless styles to choose from including more casual “driving” style loafers to more formal dress types. Any of these styles work wonderfully with a casual outfit of denim or khakis and can even be paired with shorts for spring and summer occasions. I recommend pairing a loafer with a cotton suit for a cool and elegant summer wedding look. Just in time for spring and summer the brown loafer is warm weather footwear at its finest so ditch the socks and show some ankle.

   

If you have not already, give the brown shoes a chance. One casual and one formal, and I guarantee you will be won over by their versatility. Get ready to stand out from the black shoe masses! One note though, unlike black shoes (where any black belt will do), if you are wearing a brown belt with your brown shoes it must match or be vastly different. Example, if you are wearing a rich chocolate brown shoe, your belt must be equally rich in that chocolate brown shade or of separate earth tone entirely like cream or olive green.

 Written by Scott Wicken

Scott Wicken's 5th Law - Fashion Details

 

One of my favorite quotes is “The little things, there’s nothing bigger.” Sometimes the smallest details can make the biggest impact on your wardrobe, both positive and negative. For example, that beautiful suit you just bought can lose its luster if you pair it with an old or poorly taken care of shoe. Conversely, small details in your wardrobe can give you the opportunity to express your individuality in a subtle way. Try an interesting striped belt with those khakis, a pocket square with your suit, or some bold colored sneakers with your jeans. These small details can add a subtle punch that takes your wardrobe to the next level. 

Hopefully these 5 “laws” can help you begin your wardrobe update with confidence and clarity. At the end of the day style is something intensely personal and different for each person. The key is finding what you like and making it your own. As the great author Gore Vidal said “Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and then not giving a damn.”

Written by Scott Wicken

Men's Fashion Question - Wearing All Black

 

Dear Vanessa,

    I have always liked the look of wearing all black when I go out, such as a nice black button-up and slacks. This helps me look sharp and sleek. However, recently (correct me if I’m wrong), I see that men who go out wearing flashy, colorful, or vibrant outfits, seem to catch the ladies' attention more. Here's my dilemma: I just don't look good wearing bright colors and feel uncomfortable wearing them. I would like to know if there is a style that would accommodate both looking sharp and standing out. 

-Mike, San Diego

 

Life After Denim shirt available at Nordstrom

Dear Mike,

    Different women are attracted to a variety of men. Some women like tattooed men with jewelry, some women prefer the feminine gentleman in Gucci shoes. Others adore the guy in a T-shirt and jeans. My advice for how to dress for a night on the town depends on the type of woman you want to attract. For now, I will give you some general, yet sound, advice.

The Johnny Cash look can be quite sharp and dashing, but in a club it can make you look like an employee of the bar or can come off as a little too “dark cowboy” for a fine lady’s taste. This doesn’t mean you have to wear pastels or communist red. In fact, don’t. You want to be noticed without being flashy. 

Try wearing some dark jeans with a casual button front (not to be tucked) in blue or gray. Top that off with some dressy sneakers or stylish loafers. Or you can pair some black slacks with a royal blue shirt tucked in. Pick rich hues, not bright ones, and always choose shirts with a nice texture to it. Avoid obvious stripes, cheap fabrics, shirts that are too long, anything shiny or bedazzled, and bold floral patterns. Begin with colors and subtle prints you feel comfortable with before branching out. One final piece of advice: Never get dressed with the attitude that you want to impress the ladies. Women will smell the desperation on you.

Scott Wicken's 4th Law - Don't Be Afraid of Color

Don’t be afraid of color – It may seem daunting at first, but adding a shot of color to your wardrobe can be a simple and effective way to add new life to your closet. The key is to start small and simple and as you get comfortable add additional pieces to your wardrobe. Try adding a lavender dress shirt to your workday wardrobe; by keeping the tie and suit a more muted color like light grey or charcoal it will all come together in a stylish yet understated way. For more casual situations, try an aqua blue, rust red or soft yellow polo shirt paired with some dark denim jeans or khakis. Before you know it, you will be wearing rich hues and bold colors like an east coast prepster or a dapper Italian rake.

 

Written by Scott Wicken

Vanessa Valiente's Monthly Column With 944 Magazine

 

You know Dear Abby? Well, I am now in full Dear Vanessa mode. I have a monthly column with 944 Magazine that answers men's and women's fashion questions each month. Continue reading to see what April brought 944 readers and feel free to e-mail me at ask@vanessavaliente.com with any fashion questions of your own. 

Dear Vanessa,

I am finally able to grow some sweet facial hair but need some advice on how to groom it. Is a beard too ridiculous? Is a mustache too hipster? What about the goatee? Is that completely out of style? Help! I have dark hair on my head and on my face. I am 6 feet tall and 190 pounds. 

— Chad, Golden Hill

Dear Chad,

    First things first: Is this “sweet facial hair” you speak of growing all over your face or in splotches? Is it thin and soft? If you have answered yes to either of those questions, any fur on your face is ruefully discouraged. If you can grow even half the glory of Tom Selleck, then let’s move forward. First, I want you to grow a beard ... a good quarter-inch. Be sure to continue shaving your neck, stopping your razor where your head starts or at your chin, whichever you feel looks more appropriate for your face structure. Once you have seen yourself with a beard, take a picture. At this point, I want you to shave in a goatee. This look tends to be a bit dated (even sleazy), but on the right man can be very sexy. Again, take a picture of yourself and keep the goatee for a week. Next, shave off the chin portion of the goatee to create a mustache and take another picture of yourself. Now, compare all the pictures ... which do you like the most? 

This exercise is a way to see what works best with your sense of style and face. Don’t dismiss any of the looks right away. Often times, when men grow any kind of “stylish” facial hair for the first time, they feel like they have a foreign object on their face. Prepare yourself for this awkwardness to avoid shaving off all your hard work. Once you get used to the feel of facial hair, you can accurately judge whether you like it or not. 

Some styles that should NEVER be worn: chinstraps, muttonchops and grizzly, overly long anything. No 5-inch goatees. No Santa beards. No mustaches that travel all the way down to your chin. No. No. No. Also, avoid dyeing facial hair an unnatural color as it should always remain a similar shade to the hair on your scalp. Use these tips as a guide and enjoy your masculine ability to grow hearty facial hair! 

Not everyone can afford to have a personal stylist in his or her life, but now every 944 reader can have access to one. Please send questions concerning fashion to ask@vanessavaliente.com. Each month one men’s and one women’s question will be answered in Vanessa’s “Fashion Fix” column. For a wardrobe consultation with a personal stylist, visit www.vanessavaliente.com.

Mr. Wicken's 3rd Law of Fashion - Embrace the Classics

 

There has never been a better time to embrace classic American Sportswear. Classic American designers like Polo, JCrew, Brooks Brothers, and Levis are making high quality, stylish, and affordable basics that add an instant and easily obtainable upgrade to your wardrobe. Try a classic Polo or oxford shirt paired with a trim fitting khaki pant or dark denim jean. Throw in a JCrew cashmere sweater and a clean white sneaker or brown loafer and you are off and running. These brands and styles are called “classic” for a reason they will always remain in style.

How To Wear A Shirt With Epaulettes

  

Do you know what an epaulette is? Epaulettes are a type of ornamental shoulder piece used as insignia of rank by armed forces that originated in the French army. Now though, the word is used colloquially, to refer to a type of shoulder strap - Like the little strap with a button on the shoulder littering all sorts of men's stylish shirts from Express to Macy's.

Epaulettes are everywhere right now so I want you to be careful when buying them. First warning, don't go overboard. You only need two, three max, shirts with epaulettes on it. Second warning, careful with the trendy factor. If it seems cheap and overly decorated then skip it. Third warning, this is a military inspired shirt, but you don't want to look like you are actually in the military. Make sure there are no patches on your epauletted shirt and don't get it in khaki or olive green. 

When wearing the epaulette shirt, pair it with straight leg jeans, casual slacks, fine corduroy, chinos or shorts. Do not pair it with cargo pants, military pants or dressy slacks. Lastly, never tuck this shirt in. If you buy an epaulette shirt that hits below halfway down your crotch, get it hemmed. I repeat, never tuck this in and don't run around with it hanging down your ass. 

As for an epaulette shirt I can recommend for you, I adore this Banana Republic Slim fit shirt, pictured above. It may not look like much, but I just put it on a client and it looks fantastic. Quote, "I think this is the best shirt I have ever put on." Another one I am liking is this INC shirt. Notice the clean lines of both shirts. these should be your rule of thumb for epaulette shirts.

 

Justin Bieber's Hair

 

If your hair looks anything like this kid here, reevaluate your life. Then shave your head. 

 

Scott Wicken's 2nd Law of Fashion - Know Thy Tailor

   

Second rule to think about when adjusting your style: Know thy tailor. This is your tailor, go ahead, say hello and give him a firm handshake. Heck, even give him a hug, because he is your new best friend. The importance of finding a good tailor cannot be understated. Since you are now comfortable with the importance of fit, here is the best way to achieve it. Because hey, let’s face it, very few of us can walk into a store and buy a shirt or pair of pants and have it fit perfectly right off the rack. 

Short, ripped and portly fellas in particularly are going to need the tailor help. Example, most short guys will need to have not just their pants hemmed, but their shirt hems and sleeves as well. Men with well defined shoulders and arms and a slim waist will need to buy bigger shirts that will accommodate their arm width, but will then need to have the waist taken in on their shirts to fit their torso properly. Chubby guys of average height will need to buy bigger shirts to accommodate their waist, but will need to hem sleeve lengths and shirt hems.

As you may notice, your tailor is not just for your suits and dress clothes but for everything in your closet; jeans, casual shirts, khakis and shorts. A skilled tailor can work miracles in making everything fit perfectly for your individual body type and style. 

Go ahead, be picky, find the right one who is willing to spend some time with you and you with him and don’t be afraid to date around until you find the right one. If you don't know where to find one, go to a website like Yelp and search for a tailor near your home or office and check out the reviews. Investing in this relationship will reward you with the riches of a lifetime of well fitting clothes.

Written by Scott Wicken